(This page ŠKevin D. Short 2009)
(This advice is intended as a GENERAL GUIDE ONLY - any doubts - ASK YOUR MECHANIC WHO KNOWS YOUR CAR!)
Got a new car? BoY! - isn't it AWESOME!
But what now?
It won't stay that way if you don't take care of it. Where do you start?
One simple rule, EVERY TIME you approach your car - LOOK UNDER IT!
Notice any leaks or Fluids.
Kinds of Fluids you could find........
1. ANTIFREEZE - There is the standard antifreeze a (green) and the newer kind called DEXCool (Usually Orange found in newer cars)
ALWAYS top off the radiator with the SAME TYPE of antifreeze as what's in it - NEVER MIX TYPES
if you are finding this Fluid you COULD have a bad radiator cap, or a head gasket going bad (There would be FOAM BUBBLES in the radiator - foam bubbles in the radiator could also be caused by loose radiator hose clamps) ,or a bad water pump, or worn or slipping fan belts, or a leaking radiator hose or if from the engine block it could be a rusted thru freeze plug - minor fix.
If you keep driving it, the fluid will eventually get low enough to overheat the engine AND WILL CAUSE DAMAGE.
ONLY FILL THE RADIATOR WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD - NEVER REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN HOT!!!!!!
The radiator has an Over Flow tank, (follow the hose from the radiator to the tank to find it) Make sure this tank is filled to the fill line and no more (Allows for expansion when the engine is HOT) Every cold season you need to have your antifreeze content checked to make sure there's enough so the coolant won't freeze and do damage to your engine. You can buy a cheap tester at walmart or your TRUSTED mechanic can do this.
2. BRAKE FLUID - Clear Oily Fluid with a punget odor. (NEVER GET ON ANY PAINT - IT WILL REMOVE IT!!!)
If you find this oil you will usually have a blown wheel cylinder or hose or a rusted line and need IMMEDIATE BRAKE WORK
additional sign usually spongy brake pedal - ACCIDENT CAUSING SAFETY ISSUE DON'T PUT OFF DOING THE REPAIR!
Keep the brake Fluid container (Master cylinder connected to a black Brake Booster Canister right in front of the driver on the firewall) full to the level indicator (IF YOU SPILL THIS - WASH IT OFF WITH WATER IMMEDIATELY - WITH SOAP AND WATER IF ON PAINT)
3. TRANSMISSION FLUID - Red oil - if it's leaking from the steering rack (Power Steering) you'll need new rack seals and dust boots and an alignment after repairs because replacement requires removing tie rod ends. - Sign of low fluid - hard to steer with a LOUD whinning noise from the pump while it crunches air bubbles. Hard to steer could also be a slipping fan belt which drives your steering pump -- you would normally hear it. squealing. CAN ALSO LEAK FROM THE POWER STEERING PUMP/ HOSES - MAKE SURE THE CAP WITH THE DIPSTICK ON THE POWER STEERING PUMP IS ON TIGHT AFTER CHECKING
If it's leaking from the transmission - usually a worn torque converter seal or drive shaft seal - Usually a major repair - can still drive as long as level is maintained (If NOT a severe leak) but if the level gets low the transmission could be damaged.
If it's leaking near the radiator it could be a leaking rubber hose to the radiator or a cracked radiator or trans cooler.
Check the transmission fluid on the LONG dipstick going to the firewall when the CAR IS IN PARK WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING -(TURN OFF VEHICLE TO ADD FLUID - be sure to have a transmission funnel to do this - available at any auto parts store. ) SMELL IT! IF IT SMELLS BURNT, IT'S TIME TO HAVE YOUR TRANSMISSION FILTER AND FLUID CHANGED -( DANGER NOTE - Wear NO LOOSE CLOTHING or scarves etc... when doing this.)
4. WATER - Water from the ac drain is normal and okay. But if from around the radiator you might be running with no antifreeze, just water in your radiator. Okay for emergencies but not all the time. see #1
Your windshield Washer Fluid in summertime can run plain water, but in cold climates use store bought windshield washer fluid so it won't freeze and break the plastic tank. Fill to the level indicator.
5. ENGINE OIL - Often Black - check engine oil level on a COLD ENGINE - ENGINE OFF
Leaks are usually found on older engines as the seals age and begin to wear. How serious depends on where it's coming from.
BETWEEN ENGINE AND TRANS - major repair to replace rear main engine seal. You can drive a with a minor drip as long as engine oil level is maintained - CHECK OFTEN UNTIL YOU KNOW HOW BAD THE LEAK IS. Then top off accordingly.
VALVE COVER LEAK - minor repair
OIL FILTER LEAK - minor repair, but a SERIOUS LEAK for the engine could run out of oil quickly, Replace filter immediately. Always look for filter leaks , usually caused by the mechanic NOT putting engine oil on the filter seal before installing causing the seal to catch and move out of place and make it so it didn't get tightened properly. ALWAYS CHECK THAT YOUR OIL DRAIN PLUG IS TIGHT AFTER AN OIL CHANGE.
When checking oil also put some on your fingers and rub them together. If its getting dark colored and tacky or not feeling as slippery it way past time for an oil change.
IF THE OIL IS EVER A LIGHT CREAMY BROWN - STOP DRIVING IMMEDIATELY UNTIL REPAIRS ARE MADE! This indicates water is mixing with oil which means you have a BLOWN HEAD GASKET. Water in the oil WILL cause SEVERE ENGINE DAMAGE especially to the bearings if you drive it. Have the repairs done immediately.
If you really want your engine to last and increase your gas savings. Have a can of PRO-LONG or DURALUBE engine additive added with your oil change every 50,000 miles. MANY TIMES THIS SIMPLE STEP WILL SAVE YOUR ENGINE IF FOR ANY REASON YOU RUN OUT OF OIL. (PRO-LONG also has a transmission oil additive - worth EVERY PENNY for the SAME REASON)
NOTE* Add these additives with a new car ONLY after your engine has PASSED IT'S BREAK-IN PERIOD of 5,000 miles or more. To add before that time WILL CAUSE YOUR ENGINE TO NOT BREAK IN PROPERLY which could cause EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION because the rings don't seat properly.
*These Preventative engine additives DO WORK and OFTEN SAVE YOUR ENGINE - I once had rebuilt a volkswagon bus engine for a man. During the rebuild I added a can of BARDAHL engine additive.
He later was driving on a trip about 150 miles away when he run over a cinderblock in the road ripping holes in his push-rod tubes in the engine which caused him to immediately lose ALL HIS OIL.
He was in the middle of nowhere at 2:00a.m. , and he drove 150 miles back to my garage WITH NO OIL! I tore the engine down again and checked the bearings and unbelievably there was NO NOTICEABLE DAMAGE. I installed new push-rod tubes and away he went happy. (I had installed the additive at MY EXPENSE to protect myself and the engine. this was a high pressure concentrate - a different class of additive from the two listed above. This product is usually only found up north.)
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EVERY TIME YOU WALK TO YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD ALSO LOOK AT YOUR TIRES
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Its not uncommon to pick up road debris like a nail and it's better to see it and get it fixed BEFORE you end up with a flat.
Now, How are your tires doing? this simple glance will also tell you depending on tread wear:
A. Tire tread wearing in the CENTER of the tire ONLY - TOO HIGH TIRE PRESSURE - buy a cheap gauge and adjust tire pressure.
B. Tire tread wearing on the OUTSIDES of the tire only - TOO LOW TIRE PRESSURE - buy a cheap gauge and adjust tire pressure.
C. Tire tread wearing on the OUTSIDE of the tire ONLY - FRONT END OUT OF ALIGNMENT (could be caused by worn idler arms, tie rod ends - take to get an alignment and your mechanic will tell you if this is so)
D. A CUPPING of the tire tread - one edge of the tread is higher as if scraping - BAD SHOCKS - REPLACE
E. SIDE WALL DAMAGE - cracks or dry rot or bulging caused by curb damage - REPLACE as soon as possible - SAFETY HAZARD
F. FLAT TIRE - If no side wall damage and due to a nail like object make sure your mechanic uses a PLUG PATCH.
This is a patch installed from INSIDE the tire and the plug portion is pulled thru the hole to make your tire as reliable as new.
As an added safety measure I ALWAYS MOVE THE DAMAGED TIRE TO THE REAR as an added precaution.
G. ROTATE TIRES EVERY SO OFTEN to even out tread wear, inexpensive to do when having the oil changed. ALWAYS CHECK WHEEL LUG TIGHTNESS a couple of days after rotation. If tire was slightly out of position when the wheels were tightened or you got a shoddy mechanic. after driving and the wheel re-centering the lugs COULD BECOME LOOSE.
H. DON'T FORGET TO CHECK THE TIRE PRESSURE IN YOUR SPARE TIRE!! It comes in handy when it's NOT flat (SMILE)
I. REPLACE TIRES WITH TIRES THAT MATCH - NEVER RUN A BIAS PLY TIRE (older style tires) WITH RADIALS. Bias Ply tires have DIFFERENT HANDLING CHARACTERISTICS than radials. (In the rain this could be a contributing factor to cause an accident)
It's either ALL BIAS PLY or ALL RADIALS ONLY.
J. REMEMBER SPACE SAVER SPARES SHOULD NEVER BE DRIVEN OVER 45 mph. If you are able to, rotate tires to put the space saver ON THE REAR.
Its a LOT riskier to put it on the front for the car WILL NOT HANDLE WELL ..........
K. My personal preference for safety is to always replace tires when TREAD IS HALF WORN. This is due to the increased possibility of hydroplaning due to the hard rains we get in here in Florida. - My Family's Safety ALWAYS comes FIRST.
L. INCORRECT TIRE PRESSURE - can cost you up to 2 MPG and can cause Excessive or premature tire wear and cause bad handling. minor thing to check often with BIG savings for doing so.
M. CORRECT TIRE PRESSURE - Even Wear across the tread - You've done your maintenance correctly and your front end is in good shape - CONGRATULATIONS!
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INSPECT BEFORE YOU BUY - Ase Certified Automotive Technician Teaches You How To Properly Inspect A Used Vehicle.
CAR AUCTIONS INC. - - Access to Government Surplus Auctions with rock bottom prices. SEIZED CARS, VANS, TRUCKS, MOTORCYCLES ETC...
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This is an article in progress and I will add more later.
I hope this made you more confident with your car. - Have a Great Day!
